by founder & creative director, Molly Russell
There’s something magical about arriving in a place that still feels like a secret. Folegandros is just that, a tiny speck in the Cyclades with a population of around 100 in the winter, stretching to a modest 700 in summer. No yachts, no flashiness, no scene. Just dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear water, and a welcome break from the glitz of some of its better-known neighbours.
If you’re after glamour, keep sailing. But if you want to feel like you’ve stepped into a quieter, older Greece, with rugged landscapes, whitewashed churches, and sleepy tavernas tucked down flower-draped alleys, you’ll be completely enchanted.
Getting Around the Island
The island is wild and steep, so if you suffer from vertigo, consider yourself warned. But that same topography is part of what makes Folegandros so special. Everywhere you look, there’s another dramatic view of sea against rock.
One of the best things here is the taxi boat service that zips along the southern coast from Gali Beach, dropping you at otherwise unreachable coves. It’s blissfully simple: jump on, hop off, swim, read, explore. The bays are calm, perfect for long swims, and if you're feeling brave, there’s some brilliant cliff-jumping too, equal parts exhilarating and hilarious.
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Where to Eat (and Eat Well)
Despite its size, the island punches well above its weight when it comes to food. One of my favourite dinners was at Restaurant Chic - sleek, unfussy and delicious. A welcome break from the usual Greek salad routine, and their homemade goat’s cheese (made right on the island!) was a total standout.
Pounta is another gem, especially for breakfast. I had a rocket, caper, egg and goat’s cheese sandwich that I still think about. It’s the kind of meal that perfectly captures the spirit of the place: simple, fresh, and full of flavour.
And then there’s Irini’s - a part-tavern, part-grocery store where I ended up having a long, late lunch in a shady garden strung with lights and mismatched chairs. It’s delightfully low-key, and all the better for it.
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What to See and Do
In typical Greek island fashion, the churches are beautiful, and the walk up to Panagia Church at sunset is a must. The zig-zagging white stairs climbing the dry hillside feel almost surreal, like something from a painting. The view at the top is everything you’d hope for: sea, cliffs, light, and a kind of hush that falls as the sun goes down.
I spent one morning snorkelling near the caves, and was amazed at how much marine life I saw, far more than on other Greek islands I’ve visited. The water is so clear, it’s like swimming through glass.
There’s also a tiny herb shop in town where I tried a local liqueur made from 50 different herbs. Slightly medicinal but oddly delicious, the kind of thing you bring home in a bottle and then find yourself sipping on quiet evenings, remembering the sun.
Why I’ll Keep Going Back
Unfortunately the natural water sources have dried up, so instead the sea water is treated to use for cleaning and gardening. Due to the increasing temperatures the olive trees are sadly dying. But despite these hardships, the island has a serenity I can’t quite describe. Life here moves slowly and gently. People are kind. The air smells of wild thyme and sun-warmed stone.
If Paros is where I go to recharge, Folegandros is where I go to disappear, even just for a few days. It’s proof that you don’t need much to feel completely free: a swimsuit, a good book, and a shady spot to eat something made with love.
